Ask Kisik (FAQs)

Hello,  I am a Spanish medicine doctor interested in bow shooting.   With the help of other bow shooters, we are trying to translate your article of the angular movement into Spanish, but we have some difficulties with the anatomical concepts you write in the article. I would like to know the scientific names of the following: chest bones chest joint When you describe the movement of the scapula to the backbone you say that it is a micro movement(and it looks like it were smaller than the movement of the chest bone to the chest joint, I can't understand that.

Hello Mr. Lee,  I'll be glad if you will answer me couple of questions.  The first one:  I'm trying to shoot like the you recommend (KSL shooting cycle) and my problem is that as I am starting to draw the bow my chin goes up and it is very hard for me to keep it in it's place. How should I fix it?   Second question - currently I'm shooting with W&W limbs and someone said they are too short for me, is it true? my draw is 29", and the power of the bow is 36 pounds. The length of the bow is 66". should I get new limbs? (the riser length is 25")   Thank you very much.

Coach, I appreciate that the bare shaft shooting selection process should weed out any rogue shafts, but how important do you consider spine matching to be in a competition set of arrows for recurve archers. Have any tests been carried out to measure spine consistency of the shafts selected using this process? Might you be able to put a figure on it, e.g. +/- 0.005", or some such other figure. Many thanks.

Coach, I am interested in all your comments about keeping the bow shoulder low, but when viewing the archer on your home page demonstrating the shot sequence, it seems like he is leaning his bow shoulder inwards to get in line, has he got it wrong or should I attempt to do this.

Hi,   Coach Lee introduces a 'transfer' stage where you transfer the load to your back.   Question is, where do you transfer it FROM? Perhaps there is tension in your forearm during the draw that is totally relaxed after hitting anchor? Maybe your forearm is NOT like a bicycle chain during DRAW, but SHOULD become like a bicycle chain AFTER reaching anchor? And it is the relaxing of the forearm that starts the transfer stage?

Dear Coach,   I am a club archer and appreciate that my level of archery is way below those you normally teach and like many archers I get to shoot once or twice a week yet I still put in some asonable scores (around 550 25M indoors and 1150 FITA).   I find that before a tournament I am able to do some warm up exercises and try to get myself in to the right frame of mind with some visionary exercises, but for most competitions in the UK we only get to shoot six sighters before scoring takes place yet despite the body warm up with a stretch band, I am finding that I sometimes need the first 6-18 arrows to get in to my proper shooting routine which translates in to quite a few lost points (and possibly my 1200 star).   Tournaments tend to start in the morning and family commitments mean I drive to the shoot the same day getting there about an hour before the start. Can you recommend some exercises I can do easily behind the shooting line to get me better prepared? Best regards.

Hallo,   I have two more questions, if it is ok. As you said, a harmful corn could develop": it developed on my index finger (of the drawing arm).What should I do? should I keep training with the pain?   My second question: "The tip of the elbow, when viewed from the side, should either be in line with the arrow or just a touch higher". The structure of my jaw doesn't allow me to do this, my elbow is high, to high.how can I get it down? After I anchor, I can't move it down.   Thank you very much for your help.

Dear Coach,   There is one thing that you could help us, if you have few moments. We saw all the elements of the KSL Shot Cycle, but there is one thing that puzzle us: During the High Performance Coaches Seminar (Colorado Springs) it was said (chapter 12) as follows 12. Release the arrow. Once the clicker falls, then the release is made. Just let the string go by relaxing the string hand. The string hand will slide off the string and then spring back into the hook made when the string hand was positioned on the string. At the same time as the release is being made, actively drop the bow hand as if telling a dog to sit. Keep the tension in the back throughout the release.   This bolded sentence is not quite clear to us, since we can see this maneuver from the video clips of Korean National Team training session, but it is not emphasized in Shot Cycle. Would you be so kind to explain me the effect of this maneuver with the bow hand?   Best regards.

Dear Coach Lee:   The KSL Shot Cycle II clearly shows the sequence of steps and where there is overlap (for example, between drawing and load/transfer). My question -- is there a correlation between the size of the ovals or steps and the relative amount of time each requires? That is, can I conclude that loading/transfer takes about as long as drawing, that expansion takes longer than any other step, and that follow through is a major step, taking as much time as load/transfer or drawing?   Thanks.

Dear Coach Lee,   As a male archer I've never had this particular problem myself and I didn't find any answer to it in the book either. The question is: what can female archers do to counter the problem of bowstring pushing against the bust while drawing? I've seen this numerous times and it seems to cause major problems such as incorrect drawing arm alignment and bow tilting. I also suspect it creates harmful pressure to the string in release. Sport bra and a tight chest guard seem to help a bit but could the problem be better solved by a change in the stance?   Best regards.

Could these principles be utilized for shooting fingers and a compound bow? I would think that most but maybe not all techniques would apply. I have ordered k Lees book from Lancaster Archery for our recurve instructors for our learn to shoot classes. I want to totally reform my shooting technique and I want to make sure I have the correct system to follow. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have started with the band and I am already grasping the concept of the stance, breathing, mindset,draw, shoulder placement aiming, follow through etc. If you would not recommend this system could you recommend another one. Thank you!!

My question is on length of sight extension bar – I shoot a 50lb target recurve bow with a sight extension of 15inches. However, over the last year my sight extension has broken some three times and replacements are getting a bit expensive, as the manufacturer won’t replace it free of cost. I am reluctant to change to a more conventional length of 9” or 12”, as I feel that the 15” sight extension gives me greater accuracy. Could I please have your views on this issue? Thank you!!

"Total Archery" is a great interesting read and has been very beneficial to my archery, although I'm a just little confused now when shooting at longer distances.   As my sight is set much lower, I'm wondering when I should pivot the waist to place my sight on the target in the KSL shot cycle.   If I place my sight on the gold (slightly above) this will effect my T-shape and effect my draw length as my bow arm is now placed higher in relation to my draw arm   Many Thanks.

Dear Coach,   I have got a question.   When we are holding the bow at full draw, it is extremely difficult to feel if we are using the right back muscles. Without using a bow is there a way or exercise where you can demonstrate using our back muscles?   Thank You .

Dear Coach Lee,   I’ve been working on the BEST method using Total Archery and then with one of the high performance coaches for around 6 months. My questions are with regard to the pre-draw and setup positions.   I draw a 48lbs recurve bow at 31” draw length. From the mindset I align my shoulders with the target while pre-drawing. When I come to setup position, my draw hand wrist is around 6 inches in front of my face and around 2 inches above my chin/anchor.   What do you think is a good pre-draw compared to an archers draw length?   Is there a benefit of having a higher setup position if so what do you think is a good point of reference?   Thank you.

Dear Mr. Lee, Do the scapulae come down a bit during expansion? Regards.

I can just go through the motions of the exercises. Or, I can do them while focusing on particular aspects of the shot -- for example, what is happening on the bowside of my back when I am pushing to the target during the Flexibility exercise. Or, during the Structure exercise, what motions are my shoulders going through, and what affect does it have on rotating the scapula? My question for Mr. Lee -- he probably designed them with more than exercise in mind. What does he suggest we focus on when doing them?   Thanks.

Dear Coach Lee,   First I want to say, that I am full of respect to your work. Now to my question: I think my technique is ok at the moment, but when shooting on 70 metre target I have a big problem. When clicker going off I can't release the shot (I am afraid of the clicker). Instead of releasing the arrow I let down. Sometimes I force myself to release shot, but in most cases I lose back tension. The only possibility for me to shoot some prober shots is shooting on short distances without a face. What shall I do now? Please help me, I have no idea, how to resolve the problem.   Thank you.

I realize this may seem like a simple question, but I have a disagreement with some of the local coaches on this issue. On release of the arrow my view is that the bow arm should not move to the left, but more in a forward motion toward the target while the release arm moves backward and in a small arc because of the movement of the shoulder blade.  Others say that the bow arm is also supposed to move in an arc on release pushing both shoulder blades together, creating a arc with the body with expansion of the chest in the process. I have watched people shoot using this principal an they always seem to have issues with the shafts going left.   My sense is that the bow arm is already being pushed back where it is supposed to be so that on release the only arcing movement should be in the release arm. In my view the bow arm should be pointed at the target center and pushing gently in that direction.   Could email me some information as to which view is correct.   Thanks Yours, M.M.

Dear Coach Lee,  Lately there has been a lot of talk about the "Sit Down" method you teach and there seems to be a lot of misunderstanding and misinformation of this movement in the release cycle. I have used it for the last couple of weeks now and after a settling in period it seems to give me more accuracy and consistency in my release. Could you please provide some further information as to the thinking behind this movement?   Thank you, J.M.

I would like to share with you an answer I received from one of my archers who lives some 600 miles away from me and who I coach by video link, photos, telephone and monthly visits. I'm quite fanatic and insistent that my archers keep a Performance Journal and when I, again, asked, "You are keeping your Performance Journal up to date, aren't you?" I received the following answer, which delighted and demonstrated to me the great mental attitude that my archer had developed through keeping a journal.

Dear Coach Lee,   Page 52 in Total Archery – “The string must be drawn back in a straight line from the set-up to approx. 2 – 3 inches (5 – 7.5cm) below the anchor point and not directly to the chin”.   In Germany 99% of all archers are coming directly to their anchor point on their chin.   My question is, why do I have to bring the string 2 – 3 inches (5 – 7.5cm) below the chin and why can I not make a draw direct under the chin?   Thank you.

Dear Coach Lee:   When I check my clicker during the transfer-to-holding phase I notice that my draw gets to a still-stand or even a slight let-go (2-4mm), especially when drawing decisively as recommended in the B.E.S.T. method. Is this OK or does it indicate some flaw in my technique? Do I need to slow down at the end of my draw at the end to avoid this let-go?   Thank you for your advice.

I am 59 years old, and generally in excellent physical condition. I have recently (3 months ago) taken up recurve target archery and have very quickly become addicted. I absolutely love it. I have been pouring over your book, and also getting a few coaching lessons from an experienced teacher very familiar with the B.E.S.T. method. I shoot with some excellent recurve archers who have been helpful and supportive. I have begun to have some irritation and discomfort in my wrists, both of them, but mostly in thedraw arm. I am using 30 lb. limbs (just switched from lower quality 28 lb.)and the draw weight seems not a problem for me at all. So far I have been using moderation, a wrist wrap and the occasional Advil to keep things in check. Do you have any suggestions for what I might do to address this situation-to improve it or at least keep it in check so that it doesn¹t get worse? I know form makes a big difference, and my improving form has helped somewhat (page 52 & 53). I wonder if others have a similar problem? I look forward to your insight into my problem.   Thank you.

Clarification on Question 49: Are muscles used to "flick"?   In your answer to question 49, you wrote, "To prevent any of these movements and ensure that the bow arm is kept still as long as possible, the bow hand must flick down from the wrist. This is a deliberate and quick movement and must be synchronized with the release, as such it is called “RSM50/50”. "   It sounds as if you're saying we should enlist muscles in our wrist to create a flicking motion, as opposed to just "letting" the hand achieve that position by maintaining complete relaxation in the bow hand/wrist throughout the release/follow through. Which way is correct? Use muscles to flick the hand down, or just "relax" and let the hand just achieve the "sit" position through complete relaxation? The book doesn't address the use of muscles to achieve the "sit" position. It just says the bow should be allowed to jump from the hand. Also if we are to enlist muscles to flick the hand down, would you say that it is a vigorous flick, or a light flick in terms of the amount of force exerted? Should I be "throwing" the bow away? How do I gage if I am using too much or too little force?   You also state that this motion is utilized to minimize bow arm movement. Upon release, the "snapping" of the scapulae causes my bow arm to drop about 10-15 degrees. Is this flicking designed to stop that? Should my bow arm be dropping?   Thank you very much for your help.

Mr Lee,   Firstly, I want to say how interesting and helpful Total Archery has been for me. I have used it as the main basis for rebuilding my form after an injury and found it invaluable. However, I have two problems, which I think are connected. If you have time, I would very much appreciate your thoughts on them.   Firstly, in practice and with no target, I can produce very smooth shots. With a target, sometimes I can shoot well but at other times I find it very hard to shoot with good timing. I can set up on the point of the clicker but it can take a lot of effort to pull through. Although my alignment is good (compared with the pictures in your book and on your website) and I clearly use my back muscles, I suspect I am unable to relax my drawing arm muscles to let the back take over completely. In competition especially my release is very bad, with the drawing elbow dropping and the drawing hand coming away from the face. No matter how I try to focus on relaxing my string arm I find at full draw I am either gripping the string very tightly or have a very shallow grip. Both result in a poor release, and my bow sounds very loud because of this.   Secondly, I am very unhappy with my string picture. If I anchor with a slight side anchor, the string is on the left of the sight ring (I am right handed). It is hard for me to keep the string on the left edge of the sight for consistency. If I anchor a little more around the side, the string then aligns over the sight ring and it becomes difficult to see the gold, especially at further distances. I was never shown how to align the string when I started shooting so it is very difficult for me to learn. Only when I shoot barebow with a high side anchor point can I easily align the string on the riser. When I am struggling with the string alignment I become even more tense. It takes my focus away from the feel of the shot and the first problem becomes worse. I am not overbowed, shooting only 40lbs. I am doing reversal training with heavier limbs (about 50lbs) using a formaster. I very much want to shoot better, and would appreciate your advice on what approach I should take to fix this problem. I have a very good coach, but he is very busy and I haven't had much chance to see him lately. I want to be able to sit down with him and put together a solid training plan to get me shooting to my full potential.   Thank you for your time. Regards.

Dear Coach Lee,   Firstly, thank you for sharing so much technical information on your website, which is a continuing well of information for many archers all over the world and is also followed closely by most of our coaches and club members. I have recently gone from recurve to compound and have used most of the form details described in the KSL Shot Cycle very successfully shooting compound. We recently had a lengthy discussion at our club in view of some recent articles published advocating no string contact with the face at all or at best, very light. Further, recurve archers are advised to centre the string on their chin and not having a side anchor, which seems to fly in the face of your teachings and the successes you have had with your archers. We would appreciate very much to hear your views on this.   Sincerely.

Dear Coach,   Thanks for your kind answer. I would like to wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy new year! and I would like to ask a question.   I would like to know if there is any difference between the one eye aiming and the two eye aiming. I mean what are the pros and cons of each of them, and what do you think is the better for a top archer?   thanks a lot!

Dear Coach,   Nearly each archer in Korea starts his set-up position like shown in the shot sequence gallery on the website, where the draw hand is at the height of the nose.   Here in Germany we show the new archers that the draw hand must be about 10cm lower and in one line with the chin, so that the new archer has do draw in one line - and the archer in Korea has to draw "from the top"   Why you prefer this way "from the top"?   Have a nice day!

Coach Kisik Lee   The Jager archery company makes a grip that is geared for shooting the BEST method. They have two different options, a high and low position. Would you recommend a high wrist position or a low wrist position? Thank you.